Before you continue reading this article I suggest you check a map of the world, or go to Google, to make sure you really know where Papua New Guinea is. Yes, that’s it: that green stretch of land and blue chain of islands way over there in Oceania, somewhere above Australia. Don’t be embarrassed if you didn’t know. Most people don’t. Because Papua New Guinea is the ultimate “periphery” – the term Pope Francis uses to describe the outer limits, the margins, the point furthest from the centre (both geographically and psychologically). The only tour guidebook available for Papua New Guinea describes it as “challenging...like you’re stepping into the great unknown”. And you are. We left Rome...

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